Sugar Savvy

What is it about the ubiquitous yet simultaneously elusive “Limited Edition” that makes my pulse speed up just a little bit? Why is this so exciting to me? I even find myself giving pause when the Limited Edition involves my dreaded white chocolate; not in the interest of tasting it, so much (because I very rarely put white chocolate in my mouth) but because I like to imagine that the roll-out of every new candy represents several months of candy developers, tasters and even C.E.O.s sitting around conference tables and test kitchens, laboriously planning and creating this new treat in earnest. This fantasy features, of course, one of my all-time dream jobs, right up there with ice cream flavor creator and professional dog petter.

During my weekly stroll down the candy aisle at Walgreen’s a few days ago, nothing new was jumping out at me. But as I reached the end, I did a litte double-take at the cardboard display-stand featuring not one, but TWO new Limited Edition line extension bars from Nestle: 100 Grand Dark and Nestle Crunch with Caramel Dark. I remembered having seen mention of their pending introduction from both Cybele at Candy Blog and Steve at Junk Food Blog, but that was several months ago and I had since forgotten about them. “Omigod,” I squeaked, audibly enough for the only other candy-aisle cruiser to turn her head. “I love it when they think up new ideas for old candy bars …it’s the little things that keep me going, sometimes.” She smiled, laughed, and said: “You’re so cute.” Aww, she understood me. She’s one of us, I thought, as she plucked a mercifully UNlimited edition Mounds bar from the shelf and walked off.

But back to these new bars. Needless to say, I grabbed one of each (2 for $1.19!) and left the store in noticeably better spirits than when I entered only moments before. A dang ol’ bargain of a mood-elevator, and I hadn’t even eaten them yet. I actually forgot all about my new candy until much later that evening when I returned from game night/ice cream potluck at my friends Michael and Rob’s house. But after a couple of green tea mint juleps, a dish of mocha java with (the best) chocolate ganache sauce and a vigorous bike ride home, I thought it would be smart to ingest a little bit more sugar and caffeine before heading off to bed.

I feel compelled, first, to mention that I have never actually bought a Nestle Crunch bar in my life, my exposure to them being limited to Halloween booty and receptionists’ candy dishes. Because my parents participated in the long-standing boycott of all things Nestle, my family never had the products in our house. This fact was reflected mainly in our choice of chocolate chips and hot cocoa mix, as candy bars rarely made their way onto the shopping list. Consequently, I still feel a bit scandalous or disloyal buying Nestle products, even when purely in the name of research. Besides, Butterfingers and Chunkys have never been at the top of my list, so I didn’t feel this was much of a sacrifice on my part. (By the by, I do not DISlike Butterfingers or Chunkys - or even Baby Ruths. They’re perfectly nice bars and they’ll do in a a pinch…)

That said, I have always quite enjoyed the 100 Grand (née $100,000 Bar). This bar, however, has always been about the caramel and the crispies, not the chocolate. But Dark Chocolate 100 Grand? This could ONLY be an improvement on something that was already highly ranked on my list of mainstream candy bars.

Okay, enough with the life story. Here’s what I thought:

Nestle Crunch with Caramel, Dark:

Just like the Nestle Crunch with Caramel reviewed last fall by Cybele at Candy Blog, but with dark chocolate instead of milk. I’m agreeing with Cybele on the weak taste of the chocolate, even in its dark form. It just doesn’t taste very chocolaty. It is a bit richer than Nestle milk chocolate, but in order for chocolate to legally be labeled “dark” in the U.S., it needs to contain only 35% cocoa solids. (That’s not alotta cioccolata in my book!) I also think the caramel, while a pleasantly (if messy) liquid consistency, could be saltier. In general, though, I think the “darker” chocolate offers a better counterpoint to the sweetness of caramel than does the milk. I wouldn’t necessarily seek this bar out, but I’d rather eat it than, say, a Take Five or a Butterfinger …for whatever that’s worth.

Nestle 100 Grand, Dark:

Again, the “dark” chocolate is not really dark. I know that it’s inappropriate to be comparing it to Dagoba or Green and Black, but the ingredients read as follow: sugar, corn syrup, chocolate, nonfat milk (hello?), followed shortly by high fructose corn syrup (why oh why?). Come ON! I’m thinking that Nestle and the other giants are trying to capitalize on the health benefits of “dark” much in the same way that Subway puts brown food coloring in their balloon bread and calls it “whole wheat”.

But, as with the original 100 Grand, the texture of the crispies as you bite into the firm caramel (much denser and chewier than the Crunch with Caramel) is a treat. Again, the caramel could have a higher salt content. If you like the 100 Grand, you will also like this one, even if you’re not a real fan of dark chocolate. Because, as I may have mentioned, it’s not REALLY dark chocolate. But it is good. I would buy this again. I just won’t read the label to be reminded of all the nasty hydrogenated fats and fake sugars I’m ingesting (not to be a righteous health-nut/buzz-kill.) Sometimes ignorance IS bliss.

I know it’s apples and oranges, but if you’re craving a really nice, well balanced caramel chocolate hit, I’ve been loving the Caramel Knowledge bar by Cocoa Pete’s. I never would’ve thought to put coffee in my caramel, but man, it WORKS. Check it out.