Sugar Savvy

Recently, I took a culinary press trip to Jamaica sponsored by the Jamaica Tourism Board.  Shortly after my return, I was sent something that I wish I’d sampled while in country, as they say. It was a package of three dried cocoa balls, nutmeg and a grater, along with instructions on how to make “Jamaican Hot Chocolate.” Chocolate and winter? Sounds like the makings of my first Sugar Savvy post.

Disclaimer: This ain’t no Swiss Miss, nor is it Guittard or some other fancy-schmancy rich and dark drinking chocolate. This is a hot chocolate of an entirely different nature, probably because it goes by the name of chocolate tea. In Jamaica, hot beverages that involve boiling and steeping ingredients are generally called teas, even if there are no actual tea leaves in the drink. Instead, you use cocoa balls that are formed from the paste of the cocoa bean and then dried. Adding milk and sugar softens the edges and brings out the flavor; the taste of chocolate tea, when made solely with water, tends to be subtle and slightly bitter.

Grace Cameron, editor-in-chief of Jamaican Eats magazine, says that the process of making it takes a little too long for most people to incorporate it into their everyday morning routine. She has memories of drinking it on Sundays and on holidays. “It’s somewhat of a special drink and you tend to drink it at times of the year when the pace is slower,” she says.

It can be made with water, milk, coconut milk, or some combination thereof. If you use water, she recommends adding condensed milk at the end. “If you want something really rich, use two cocoa balls and make it with coconut milk, and add brown sugar and cinnamon.” Some people add other spices such as nutmeg, allspice and bay leaf, but you can experiment with it. But be careful. “If you notice, it’s very oily on the top and it holds the heat. You have to sip it slowly, otherwise your tongue can get scalded,” she warns.

I made it first with water and watched the pot’s contents turn a velvety brown color. I strained off the liquid and the solids that were left very much resembled tea leaves. One of my tasters pronounced it subtle and drank the entire mug. My other taster, an unapologetic chocoholic, did not especially care for it. Our first foray was garnished with vanilla sugar and cinnamon. I thought it slightly bitter and needed sugar. The next time I made it with a can of coconut milk to equal parts water: it created frothy bubbles and was creamy and rich without being overly sweet. Is adding marshmallows an act of sacrilege?

Since it’s not every day one encounters cocoa balls, I found an online source through a company called Sundial for $5 per package. Sundial’s online ordering is under construction, but you can either call them and order over the phone or use one of its distributors, Yew 360. If you want to improvise, Cameron suggests unsweetened cocoa powder.

You can find the recipe for chocolate tea in the winter 2008 issue of Jamaican Eats — it’s available internationally — but without further ado, here’s the recipe for chocolate tea, courtesy of Grace Cameron. It’s just the kind of puttering-in-the-kitchen activity one seeks during winter hibernation.

Chocolate Tea
1 Jamaican chocolate ball
3 tbsp. sugar
1/4 cup condensed milk
5 cups water
Pinch of salt
3 cinnamon leaves or 2 cinnamon sticks
Grated nutmeg (optional)

Grate chocolate ball. Bring water to boil and add grated chocolate, cinnamon and other spices. Boil on low heat for 15-20 minutes. Strain into mugs and sprinkle grated nutmeg on top if desired.

For richer chocolate tea, substitute coconut milk for water or use half milk and half water.