Sugar Savvy

During my all-too-brief stay in Austin, Texas, several weeks ago, I spotted the unique design of Richard Kaplan’s Brown Paper Chocolates. Housed in little cardboard boxes, these chocolates come in hefty 4oz squares and a range of flavors that run the gamut from the tried-and-true (Dark Chocolate with Espresso, Kahlua, and Cocoa Nibs) to the unexpected (Dark Chocolate with Walnuts, Candied Beets and Brandy). According to the Brown Paper Chocolates website, it was in 2004 that Kaplan, previously a chef at such restaurants as One Fifth in New York and the River Cafe in Houston, decided to have a go at making chocolates with fresh and unprocessed ingredients. After perusing the website, I feel a little brokenhearted that I missed out on the seasonal Valentine’s flavor of White Chocolate with Candied Strawberries, Balsamic Syrup, Marsala, and Mint, but I assure you, what I did pick up for myself more than made up for the disappointment.

So, did I ease myself into the experience that is Brown Paper Chocolates by choosing a flavor combination that I could feel fairly assured of loving immediately? Did I choose one of the milk chocolates with fruit and nuts, or a dark chocolate because, at least that way, I know I would like the base chocolate? Of course not. I went as far out of my comfort zone as the selection I was faced with allowed, and picked up the White Chocolate with Lavender, Pimm’s No.1, Toasted Pepper, Fresh Chervil, and Lavender Fleur de Sel. Yes, a mouthful in more ways than one.

Unless it seems appropriate to simply pick up the single block of chocolate and (messily) nibble away at it, the best way of approaching these treats seems to be using a knife to shave off slices. At this point the almost unclassifiable texture of the chocolate becomes apparent; halfway between chocolate and fudge, it does not dissolve in the mouth as fudge does but at the same time there is a definite softness in the melt that comes from the cream and butter in the ingredients. The aroma is a mix of herby fruitiness with a slight undertone of gin, and I was pleased to discover that in taste, too, no one flavor consistently overpowers any other. Of course, there are times when the lavender fleur de sel jumps out to make itself known, but even this simply serves to highlight the sweetness and accompanying flavors of the chocolate itself.

It’s a gorgeous chocolate to look at; the lavender can be seen in speckles of purple and, upon cutting, tiny green leaves of chervil pop out. The Pimm’s No. 1 adds depth to the flavor without taking over with the gin, and the only flavor component that I find little trace of is the toasted pepper. Overall, the manner in which the herbs, salt, and Pimm’s cut through the sweetness of the white chocolate to create a fantastic taste experience ensures this treat gets the thumbs up from me, and I envy every one of you who lives in an area with access to these interesting chocolates.